One of the oldest and most important cities in Hungarian history, playing a key role in the development of the state during the Middle Ages.
The first capital of the Kingdom of Hungary, today a town of barely 30,000 inhabitants, inevitably brings to mind the Polish city of Gniezno—once an important center of power, later reduced to an insignificant provincial town.
That might be the case in Poland, but modern Hungary is different: it is a country with one great metropolis—Budapest—and the rest made up of charming yet somewhat sleepy towns. Debrecen, Hungary’s second-largest city and its historic capital, is smaller than our Radom, while two other historic capitals—TimiÈoara and Bratislava—lie outside the present-day borders of Hungary.
So perhaps Esztergom, compared with its competition, does not fare as badly as Gniezno in Poland.
Is Esztergom worth visiting?
Yes—if only to see the largest and most important Catholic cathedral in Hungary and to have a meal at the luxurious Primate’s Cellars. Beyond that, I can’t say much more, as we visited Esztergom at the end of September, on a weekday during a very rainy week. The town was deserted, restaurants had taken in their umbrellas and tables from the sidewalks, and were running at a quarter of their usual pace...
Esztergom was the first capital of Hungary and the birthplace of King Stephen I, who later became the first King of Hungary and a saint. It was here that Stephen I was crowned king in the year 1000, an event that symbolizes the beginning of the Christian Hungarian monarchy.
The city’s most important landmark is the Basilica of Esztergom (Esztergomi Bazilika), the largest church in Hungary and one of the largest in Europe. It stands on a hill above the Danube and can be seen from afar, both from Hungary and Slovakia. Construction of the basilica began in 1822, and it is considered a masterpiece of neoclassical architecture.
Esztergom is the seat of the Archbishop of Esztergom-Budapest, the Primate of Hungary, with the exception of the years 1543–1820, when, due to the Turkish occupation, the primates’ seat was in Trnava, today in Slovakia. This gives Esztergom enormous significance in the religious life of the country, making it the spiritual center of Hungary.
Esztergom lies directly on the border with Slovakia, with the Danube River separating it from the Slovak town of Štúrovo.
The Archdiocese of Esztergom
In 1001, Saint Stephen established an archdiocese here, which became the most important religious center in the country. The Archbishop of Esztergom was the Primate of Hungary, meaning he held the highest ecclesiastical office in the kingdom, with influence over both spiritual and political matters. He was the interrex, and only he could crown the ruler of Hungary.
The Basilica in Esztergom
The Primatial Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Saint Adalbert is the largest church in Hungary, with a floor area of 5,600 m². The basilica’s dome has a diameter of 33.5 meters and a height of 100 meters, making it one of the tallest domes in the world.
The church was built on Castle Hill, on the foundations of several earlier churches. The first of them, the Church of Saint Adalbert, was built by Stephen I of Hungary between 1001 and 1010 to serve as the first cathedral in Hungary.
The cornerstone of today’s cathedral was laid on April 23, 1822, under Archbishop János Scitovszky, and the basilica was completed and consecrated in 1856 in the presence of Emperor Franz Joseph.
Parish Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola
Also known as the Twin-Towered Church or the Víziváros Church, it is one of the most outstanding monuments of Hungarian Baroque architecture.
The Jesuits, who arrived shortly after the expulsion of the Turks, with the support of Archbishop György Széchenyi, built a grammar school, a monastery, and a church dedicated to St. Ignatius of Loyola on the site of a medieval church dedicated to St. Peter, which had previously been destroyed and converted into a mosque.
The painting on the main altar, depicting the glorification and miracles of St. Ignatius, was painted by Martino Altomonte in 1737.
Pestis Madonna Column
This group of statues commemorates the devastating plague that ravaged the country in 1739.
Primateâs Palace and Archives
The palace was built in Neo-Renaissance style on the site of the old Jesuit monastery and grammar school, as the residence of the Archbishop of Esztergom. The northern part of the building houses the Christian Museum.
The Primate’s Archives in Esztergom are the largest ecclesiastical archives in Hungary. Their origins date back to the early 11th century, with the earliest surviving inventory dating from the early 15th century.
Royal Castle of Esztergom
Built by Duke Géza on Várhegy Hill in Esztergom at the end of the 10th century and expanded by his son, King Stephen I (St. Stephen), who was crowned in the local church. In the first decade of the 11th century, he made the castle one of the most important royal residences of the time, with only minor interruptions until the mid-13th century.
Memorial Plaque of the 14th Honvéd Infantry Regiment
A memorial site at the wall of one of the Turkish bastions. The 14th Honvéd Infantry Regiment was recruited from the counties of Bars, Esztergom, Nyitra, and Hont. According to the plaque, the regiment fought in the First World War between 1914–1918, including at Ivangorod, the Carpathians, Tölgyes, and Ojtoz, as well as on the battlefields of France and Italy.
Holy Trinity Monument
A group of sculptures created in 1900 by György Kiss. Its predecessor was a Holy Trinity column erected by the town to avert the plague epidemic of 1710.
Beneath a canopy supported by three columns stands the Hungarian Madonna with the Child Jesus on her lap, flanked by statues of Saints Roch and Sebastian.
PrĂmĂĄs Pince â The Primate`s Cellars
A vast cellar system covering 3,000 square meters, located just below the Esztergom Basilica, within the historic walls of the primatial food stores. Despite appearances, it is a modern restaurant, with a wine tunnel showcasing the wine regions of the Carpathian Basin.
Széchenyi Square
The main square of Esztergom, originally the market square of the medieval and later Baroque town. After the expulsion of the Turks, this was the first area to be resettled. Most of the Baroque, Classicist, and Romantic buildings surrounding the square were built by Esztergom’s wealthiest merchants.
