Kyiv is the capital and largest city of Ukraine, located in the northern part of the country on the Dnieper River.
With any report from the capital of Ukraine, there’s always the issue that, for obvious reasons, they can quickly become outdated.
I first visited Kyiv in 1993, when Ukraine—and the whole world—were very different, and the photos below come from October 2013, taken literally just hours before the fateful Maidan, which culminated on November 30 with a brutal attempt at pacification.
That’s why you have the chance to see the bust of Lenin at Teatralna metro station. Perhaps it’s no longer there, but there are things in Kyiv that are more enduring.
So what is the capital of Ukraine really like?
The first thing that comes to mind is its sheer size. Kyiv has a population of about 3 million, making it the seventh largest city in Europe. By comparison, Poland’s largest city, Warsaw, has 1.7 million inhabitants, while Europe’s largest city, Constantinople, has 15 million.
Kyiv is vast, concrete, and spread across many hills. On top of that, it is divided by the Dnieper River, which at its widest point spans 23 kilometers—making the Vistula look like a mere stream.
Wealth and contrasts. These seem to be inseparable elements of the post-Soviet universe, and Kyiv is no exception. I saw animated light shows on skyscrapers for the first time in Kyiv—on the famous Gulliver building—long before they appeared in Warsaw, Barcelona, or Rome.
The number of Rolls-Royces, Ferraris, Bentleys, and Lamborghinis in Kyiv exceeds even that around Lake Como. And this in a city where many still drive Zaporozhets and Ladas.
Picture this: near the Bessarabsky Market I spotted a beautiful Ferrari, a very rare model even for the brand, and I intended to photograph it. Suddenly, out of nowhere, a hulking man in livery appeared and strictly forbade it.
Damn, he was dressed like a maître d’ at Monte Carlo! After that experience, the golden toilets in Yanukovych’s mansion were no longer particularly shocking to me.
History. Despite its 5th-century origins, Kyiv lacks the continuous cultural legacy of many European cities. All those monumental buildings on Khreshchatyk, in the style of Soviet Baroque, date from the 1950s, as the original structures were destroyed by the Russians during World War II.
The most famous and worthwhile landmark in Kyiv is the Pechersk Lavra and its catacombs, but if you are Proud Poles, I also recommend a selfie at the reconstruction of the Golden Gate. Supposedly, it was on this very gate that Bolesław the Brave nicked Poland’s coronation sword while storming in to violate the wife, daughters, grandmother, and the rest of the harem of Prince Yaroslav the Wise of the Rurik dynasty.
Culture shock. Although I thought nothing in Eastern Europe could surprise me anymore, Kyiv managed it several times. The first was that man in theatrical livery guarding his master’s car, but the second was more shocking.
At Dnipro metro station there is an information point for missing or unidentified dead persons. In other countries, the authorities would likely post only plain notices or perhaps facial reconstructions by professional artists. Not in Kyiv. At Dnipro, there were simply photographs of corpses in various stages of decomposition, like pages from a forensic pathology manual. And this in a public place where people walk with children… Perhaps it makes sense, but… you know…
Cuisine. As in the rest of the East. I guarantee that no lover of sour cream and thick, fatty lard will leave Kyiv disappointed. But if that’s not to your taste, like in any large city, you’ll find restaurants with Italian, Thai, and Georgian cuisine, as well as more exotic options for us, such as Tajik, Kyrgyz, or Uzbek.
As for culinary highlights, the Bessarabsky Market deserves mention. The most distinctive element of the market are the dairy sellers, who sculpt buildings, animals, and even rockets out of huge blocks of butter. We stocked up there for breakfasts, buying bread, half a liter of salmon caviar, and a buttery replica of Michelangelo’s David.
Would I recommend a trip to Kyiv? Absolutely. The capital of Ukraine is a very dynamic city and, despite everything, an optimistic one, with a fascinating yet difficult history. What the future holds, we do not know—so perhaps it’s best not to wait too long.
The city has a rich history dating back at least to the 5th century, when it was founded by the Slavs. In the Middle Ages, Kyiv was one of the most important centers of culture and art in Kievan Rus, and in the 17th century it became the capital of the Cossack Hetmanate.
Kyiv is home to many valuable monuments, such as St. Sophia’s Cathedral, the Kyiv Pechersk Lavra, and the Cathedral of Holy Wisdom. The city’s most important landmark, however, is St. Sophia’s Cathedral, built in the 11th century and one of the best-preserved monuments of Byzantine architecture in the world.
Streets of Kyiv
Kyiv Pechersk Lavra
One of the oldest monasteries in Rus’, founded in the 11th century by St. Anthony of the Caves.
The monastery consists of two parts: the Upper Lavra and the Lower Lavra, connected by an extensive system of underground corridors and caves. These underground passages, known as “pechery” (caves), are of great value not only for their architecture and sacred art but also for their history—many Orthodox monks and saints were buried within them.
Dormition Cathedral in the Kyiv Pechersk Lavra
The main cathedral of the Kyiv Pechersk Lavra and the burial place of the princes of Kyiv, founded in 1073 at the initiative of the monk Theodosius of the Caves and built within three years with funds provided by Prince Sviatoslav Yaroslavich.
Over the centuries, the church was destroyed, rebuilt, and modernized. On November 3, 1941, in the heart of the Upper Lavra, an explosion—most likely caused by explosives planted by the NKVD—reduced the great cathedral to ruins.
On November 21, 1998, on the feast day of Archangel Michael, the Primate of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church, Metropolitan Volodymyr of Kyiv and All Ukraine, laid the first stone in the foundations of the restored cathedral.
Two years later, on August 24, 2000, His Beatitude Volodymyr consecrated the majestic temple, which, under the direction of People’s Architect of Ukraine Oleh Oleksandrovych Grauzhys (1944–2018), was rebuilt from the ruins in the form it had in ancient times.
Refectory Church of Sts. Anthony and Theodosius of the Caves
This church is the youngest temple of the Kyiv Pechersk Monastery. It was built near the site where the monks’ original dining hall once stood, destroyed by an earthquake in 1230.
In 1941, the Refectory Church was damaged during the explosion of the Dormition Cathedral. Restoration and repair work on the facades was essentially completed in 1956, while the renovation of the interiors was carried out between 1976 and 1980.
Since 1990, regular services have been held in the church.
Lach Gate in Kyiv
A medieval entry gate to Yaroslav’s fortified town in Kyiv, the capital of Kievan Rus’, leading to the southeast. It was located in the medieval quarter of the Polish merchants’ community in Lachivska Sloboda, also known as Polish Wola.
The Lach Gate was one of three gates built by Yaroslav the Wise.
Great Lavra Bell Tower
Built between 1731 and 1745 in the Classicist style, on the site of a wooden belfry destroyed by fire in 1721. At over 96 meters tall, the bell tower was for many years the tallest masonry building in Eastern Europe.
Its construction required about 5 million bricks and 20,000 stones. The walls of the first tier are 8 meters thick, and the base diameter is 29 meters. The richness, variety, and technical mastery in the use of ceramics in the bell tower’s architecture make it unique among similar structures.
In the 1930s, the tower lost most of its bells, and during World War II it was heavily damaged by fire. Restoration work was carried out between 1957 and 1963.
Motherland Monument
The statue stands about 102 meters tall, making it one of the tallest monuments in the world.
It was designed by sculptor Vasyl Borodai and unveiled in 1981 to commemorate the Soviet Union’s victory in World War II. The Motherland symbolizes women who participated in the war as soldiers or military workers, as well as those who became its victims.
Kyiv Zoo
Covering an area of over 34 hectares, the zoo is located on the left bank of the Dnipro River, near the center of Kyiv.
Founded in 1908, it currently houses around 4,000 animals representing more than 400 species, including many endangered ones.
Two-Headed Turtle at the Kyiv Zoo
A remarkable curiosity of the Kyiv Zoo is its two-headed turtle, which attracts enormous attention from visitors. This extraordinary reptile, born with a congenital developmental anomaly, has two independent heads that react separately to external stimuli. Despite its uniqueness, the turtle enjoys good health and has become a symbol of the zoo’s exceptional biodiversity.
Golden Gate
The city gate that once served as the main entrance to Kyiv’s Old Town. The Golden Gate was built in 1037 during the reign of Prince Yaroslav the Wise as part of a larger defensive complex that also included the Golden Tower.
The gate was adorned with golden domes and sculptures, giving it an impressive appearance. Over time, many of these decorations were lost. The Golden Gate served not only a defensive role but also a ceremonial one, being the site of important public events and ceremonies.
In 1240, during the Mongol invasion of Kyiv, the Golden Gate was destroyed. It was later rebuilt and renovated several times. The current structure dates largely from its 17th-century reconstruction. Today, the Golden Gate is one of Kyiv’s most important historical symbols and a popular tourist attraction.
According to legend, after capturing Kyiv, Bolesław the Brave struck his sword against the gate, leaving a notch in the blade.
Saint Sophia`s Cathedral, or the Cathedral of Holy Wisdom in Kyiv
Also known as Saint Sophia’s Cathedral, as it stands within the Saint Sophia Monastery complex. It was built in the 11th century during the reign of Yaroslav the Wise, Prince of Kyiv.
The Cathedral of Holy Wisdom is a prime example of Byzantine sacred architecture. It is characterized by its traditional domed form, while its facades are decorated with mosaics, frescoes, and sculptures. The interior is equally impressive, richly adorned and filled with icons.
The Great Cathedral of Saint Sophia, standing in the historic center of ancient Kyiv for over a thousand years, is the oldest fully preserved Christian church in the East Slavic lands.
The Cathedral of Holy Wisdom in Kyiv is a symbolic monument. Just as the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople has been the universal symbol of the Church of Holy Wisdom, the Kyiv Sophia Cathedral became such a symbol for the East Slavic world.
St. Michael`s Golden-Domed Monastery in Kyiv
An active Orthodox monastery dedicated to the Archangel Michael, located in Kyiv, and home to the cathedral of the Orthodox Church of Ukraine. The original church was built between 1108 and 1113 during the reign of Sviatopolk Iziaslavych, grandson of Yaroslav the Wise.
In the mid-1930s, the cathedral was demolished to make way for administrative buildings. In the early 1990s, the Ukrainian Orthodox Church of the Kyiv Patriarchate decided to rebuild the monastery. The cathedral was reopened on Kyiv Day in 1998.
St. Andrew`s Church in Kyiv
St. Andrew’s Church was built between 1747 and 1754, during the reign of Empress Elizabeth I of Russia, designed by architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli. It was erected atop Andriyivska Hill, offering stunning views of Kyiv.
This church is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. It is noted for its picturesque, undulating form and its ornate sculptural decorations. A unique feature is its grand staircase of five arches leading up to the church. St. Andrew’s Church is often considered one of Rastrelli’s most significant works.
Saint Andrew, to whom the church is dedicated, is one of Christianity’s foremost apostles and is regarded as the patron saint of Kyivan Rus.
Monument to the Fallen in Afghanistan
The monument to the so-called Afghantsi—a colloquial name for veterans of the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in 1979—was unveiled in 1994. Ukrainians made up the largest group of soldiers sent to that conflict. The monument is located midway between the Kyiv Pechersk Lavra and the National Museum of the History of Ukraine.
Kyiv Metro
The Kyiv Metro is the oldest and largest subway system in Ukraine. Its planning dates back to the 1930s, though it only officially opened in 1960.
Today, the metro consists of three lines, about 70 km of track, and 52 stations, serving hundreds of thousands of passengers daily. It is also notable for its depth—Arsenalna Station, at 105.5 meters below ground, is the deepest metro station in the world.
